High Voltage Coils

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Category: Motorcycles

Erfahrungsbericht Motorradbatterien Blei und Lithium

Posted on 1. May 2017 in Motorcycles

Über die Jahre habe ich schon so einige Batterien in meinen Motorrädern verbaut, jetzt möchte ich kurz festhalten wie lange die Batterien gehalten haben. Das verwendete Ladegerät war ein “CTEK MXS 5.0”. Das Ladegerät verfügt über eine Überwachung und schützt so die Batterie vor Überladung. Jeden Winter wurden die Batterien ausgebaut, im Wohnraum aufbewahrt und ca 1 mal im Monat nachgeladen.

Für meine Solomaschine benötige ich den Batterietyp YTZ10S 12V / 8,6Ah Wartungsfrei AGM.

  1. Banner BIKE BULL YTZ10S/50901, gekauft 2011 hält 4 Jahre
  2. DELO GEL YTZ10S (DIN50901), gekauft 2015 hält 1 Jahr
  3. Shido YTZ10S Lithium ION, gekauft 2016, noch immer verbaut

Das Gespann benötigt den Batterietyp YTX20L-BS / 18Ah, hier wird auch im Winter gefahren, jedoch zyklisch einmal im Monat nachgeladen

  1. Toplite YTX20L-BS, gekauft 2015 hält 2 Jahre
  2. Shido YTX20L-BS, gekauft 2017, noch immer verbaut

Wie man sieht habe ich umgerüstet von Blei auf Lithium.
Der Mehrpreis bei der Anschaffung wird sehr schnell vergessen wenn man die Vorteile der Technologie anschaut:

  • Die Batterie ist viel leichter als eine Blei Batterie
  • Die Anzahl der Ladezyklen wird mit 1000 angegeben, Bleiakkus liegen zwischen 150 und 300 Zyklen
  • Sehr geringe Selbstentladung, nach dem Auswintern kann sofort gestartet werden

Natürlich gibt es auch ein paar Nachteile

  • Bei Temperaturen unter 0 Grad kann nur mehr ein Bruchteil des Stromes entnommen werden, zum Starten reicht es meistens nicht aus. Im Vergleich funktioniert der Bleiakku hier wesentlich besser, bei kalten Temperaturen halbiert sich die Kapazität, jedoch reicht das meist aus um den Motor zu starten.

 

Bisher bin ich sehr zufrieden mit meinen Lithium Batterien, vorallem das Startverhalten nach längeren Ruhepausen macht die Technologie sehr interessant.
Auch Finanziel sollte sich die Batterie rechnen:

  • Blei Akku Anschaffung ca 50€ , hält 200 Zyklen, nach 2 Jahren zu tauschen
  • Lithium Akku ca 100€, hält 1000 Zyklen, sollte nach 10 Jahren zu tauschen sein

Ob sich das Rechenbeispiel ausgeht wird die Zukunft zeigen. Sobald ich eine neue Batterie kaufen muss werde ich den Beitrag updaten.

 

 

Ural Ranger Model 2014 fuel sensor and indication lamp

Posted on 17. July 2016 in Motorcycles

Hi folks,
my favorite motorcycle has a little issue. A fuel sensor is available in the newer models. It is directly connected to the fuel indication lamp. If no fuel is present, the lamp is lit. Problem is, after turning the ignition, it does not flash up, so you dont have an indication if the fuelsensor or lamp is working. If you drive longer routes and you rely on this feature, you may find yourself in a situation without gas.

I developed an easy solution with just a few parts.

stecker

The original connectors used are from the company MOLEX
Mizu-P25™ 2.50mm Pitch Waterproof Wire-to-Wire Plug Housing, 3 Circuits

MALE
52116-0341
MALE_CRIMP
50038

FEMALE
052117-0341
FEMALE_CRIMP
50039

All products are available from the electronic supplier tme.eu (which kindly also ships to private households)
male crimp
male connector

female crimp
female connector

Next step is to get a working hardware, for this application i wanted to have some features:
* Using original waterproof connectors and housing, no soldering should be done for easy swapping and replacing any parts
* Sensor voltage protection, no more then 12V to the sensor
* Sensor output driver does not drive any load (13kOhms)
* Lamp short circuit protection, current is limited to 100mA
* After Ignition do a lamp test for ~500ms, then 500ms shutdown, then use the sensor value

schaltplan

The controller used is a Atmel ATiny13V, which works at 2MHz @5V. The code is written in plain c.

int main(void)
{
	// PB0 = GND
	// PB1 = sensor reading
	// PB4 = lamp output
	DDRB=0x10;
	PORTB=0x00;
	_delay_ms(500);
	PORTB=0x10;
	_delay_ms(1000);
	PORTB=0x00;
	_delay_ms(500);	
	PORTB=0x00;
	while (1)
	{
		if (PINB & 0x02)
		{
			PORTB = 0x10;
		}else{
			PORTB = 0x00;
		}		
	}
}

there is a testvideo available on youtube, folowwing this link

A possible improvement would be to debounce the digital inputs and adding a low pass filter, which will remove unwanted blinks if the sensor is only half wet.

Ural Ranger steering damper repair

Posted on 14. March 2016 in Motorcycles

Hi all,
recently the steering damper of my sidecar went dry, so it did not work correctly. Dismounting the damper was quite easy, but problematic was opening the end screw of the damper, to refill the oil. Because the damper screws are made of aluminuim, the risk of damaging the screw is very high.
The only way around is to build a proper tool for opening the device.

ld1
end screw with little notches

ld4
first mockup of the tool in CAD

ld3
after a little mechanical work

ld2
testing the tool

the cad is available for download here

The tools material is also aluminium, because i dont want the tool to be a harder metal then the screw.
So far this little hack works great, no more problems opening the damper, a 100% fixed grip and no risk of damaging the damper.

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Ural butt warmer for the cold months

Posted on 18. October 2015 in Motorcycles

Hi folks,
brace yourself, winter is coming. To prevent myself from freezing while winter driving, I decided to tune my motorcycle with a seat heater, alias “butt warmer”.
This modification if very simple, but took some time to make it practical in terms of usability and maintenance.

List of materials:

  • heating element, 12V – 38W, 320x137mm, link to shop
  • automotive fuse, 10A
  • automotive water resistant connectors, 2 pins from ebay (AMP superseal)
  • switch rated 6A with protective cover
  • scrap metal and a little box as housing

This is the schematic. The box contains an LED, which is used to indicate the status of the heating element. Because the switch is not connected to the ignition key, the heater will continue working, even if the motorcycle is not running. A problem of this wiring scheme, if you forget to turn of the heater, it will completely drain the battery!
Advantage of this scheme is the ability to directly hook up a charger to the battery, without needing to remove the battery from the vehicle.

schaltplan

Put everything in a little box, seal it, so the box is waterproof. Also add two connectors, male and female, so accidentally cross the wires is excluded. If you cross the wires, you will see the result, because the LED is always on, the heater will be able to be switched on and off normally.

DSC_0472

Put the heating element on top of the seat, seal it with protective cover and solder a connector to it.

DSC_0474

Hide the connector to the battery underneath the box (to loosen the box, only 2 screws need to be removed). Leave the connector to the seat above, to it can be easily disconnected.

DSC_0476

Riding with the heater:
My first impression was very bad. I soldered everything together, threw the switch and nothing happened. After 2 minutes the heat started, but just by touching it with my hands, it felt very cold.
So i decided to do a little test ride, with outside temperatures of about 12 – 5 *C. I was wearing a jean and on top of it protective trousers. The system works perfectly, even trough the large amount of clothes! Because of the large heating area and directly sitting on the pad, it takes about 1 minute to heat up. After 3 minutes i needed to switch it off, because the temperature was very hot 😉
Because of the mounting position, i can directly switch the heater on while driving with ease. Switching off is even simpler, because by closing the protective cover, the switch will also move to off position.

Conclusion:
This modification is very simple, works great, costs about 50€ and a weekend with some free time. It’s a good addition for winter drivers and may be removed in about 20 minutes.

 

 

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Ural Ranger / Gear Up electronic interface for onboard diagnostics

Posted on 9. October 2015 in Motorcycles

Hi Folks,

i did some research on the electronics of my sidecar, a URAL Ranger ( or Gear Up in the US) model year 2014. This machine uses an electronic fuel injection (EFI) instead of a standard carburetor. Unfortunately this means some additional reverse engineering to get full access to all aspects this machine.

DSC_1050

 

1.) Which connector is being used?

The “protection” cap is also a working connector, but i didn’t want to use it, so i ordered another one from RS-components. (RS order number 511-0168)

Molex MX150L – 6 Pole  /  MOLEX 19418-0011
link to shop

In addition to the connector, it is mandatory to insert the pins. (RS order number 511-0067)
link to shop

 

2.) How to connect to a remote OBD device?

I used a OBD (on board diagnostics) cable extension 1m from ebay, which i cut in half and soldered the pins according to the schematic below

steckerbelegung

Molex connecter – OBD Pins

1 CAN HI – 6 CAN HI
2 CAN LO – 14 CAN LO
3 BAT GND – 4 chase GNDand 5 signal GND
4 BAT + – 16 Supply Voltage

resulting in the following cable

DSC_0461

 

3.) Readout data from the motorcycle

For reading out the data i am using a DIAMEX Scandevil. This is a handheld ODB scanner, so no additional software is needet to read out data from the motorcycle. It is also possible to insert a SD card and store sensor values directly on the flash drive, while riding the bike.

link to manufacturer

DSC_0462

My first tests worked out great, i was able to detect both EFI units, read out the sensor values like RPM, outside temperature and ignition timing.

DSC_0457

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